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Fabrics combining printing methods and jacquard weaving were developed in Aalto University's New Landscapes in Textile Design project, which aimed explore design-driven ways to reduce the environmental impact of the textile industry. The project explored the repurposing of surplus materials and printing over a patterned jacquard fabric alongside the use of digital tools, such as artificial intelligence. The fabrics were woven from surplus yarns using Aalto University’s jacquard loom. The random colours of the yarns and AI-generated landscape-inspired imagery formed the basis for the designs. The patterns were further developed both by hand using flatbed screen printing and through an industrial digital printing process. 

The jacquard loom, invented by the French Joseph Marie Jacquard in the 19th century, used punched cards to create pattern repeats. The simple punched card included the weave’s information. The method inspired English mathematician Ada Lovelace, regarded as the first computer programmer and a pioneer of artificial intelligence. In today’s jacquard looms, the punched cards are replaced by computer-aided digital tools. Aalto University’s team revisited the roots of Jacquard weaving by integrating AI, a new tool, into the design process.

Traditionally, Jacquard has not been used for printed fabrics due to its technical complexity. In Jacquard weaving, the colour palette is created by varying the yarns. Excess yarns can be minimised by extending the pattern with digital pigment printing, which is more environmentally friendly than traditional dyeing methods. 

The project team at Aalto University’s School of Arts, Design and Archicture consists of Maarit Salolainen, Maija Fagerlund, Emilia Kuurila, and Anna Semi. Professor of Textile Design Salolainen (b. 1966) has a distinguished career in the international textile industry as a creative director and textile designer. University Lecturer Fagerlund (b. 1981) works as a textile designer alongside her teaching responsibilities. Kuurila (b. 1989) and Semi (b. 1991), both also part of the teaching staff at the Department of Design, are fashion and textile designers. The team developed an experimental project aimed at reducing the environmental impact of the textile industry, which piloted combining printing techniques with Jacquard fabric. The project was based on using surplus yarns and utilising digital design.

EMMA Museum's exhibition Draped – Art of Printed Fabrics offers an immersive way to explore textiles as an art form that adorns our homes, bodies, and memories. The exhibition showcases the artistry of printed fabrics by 31 designers and artists and will be on display from 12 February 2025 to 14 March 2027.

Collaboration: Vanelli Textiles, digital Textile printing.

This project is funded by Department of Design Creative Practices grant.